Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
